Monday, January 17, 2011

Custom Board Guide (Part 2)



Alright, I was able to finish out my new board last week and surfed it a couple times this weekend. I'm still working on dialing the board in completely, but I'm really pleased with how the board is performing thus far.

In the second part of the Custom Board Guide, we're going to discuss dimensions, fin setups and glassing options. There is a lot of info and opinions on these topics and it will vary greatly depending on the shaper you are working with and who is glassing your board. One thing to keep in mind is that both the fins and the glassing can each play major roles in how a board performs, so it's important to talk to your shaper about these aspects.

Dimensions: The dimensions of a surfboard are extremely important to provide the right balance of volume and performance and this will vary greatly from rider to rider. Common surfboard dimensions are length, wide point, and thickness of the board. There are other dimensions that shapers will measure, but these three are most important for the customer. As a general rule, the bigger you are, the more volume you need to maximize your performance and fun. I'm a pretty big guy and the dimensions of my board are 6'10" long x 21 1/4" wide x 3" thick. I arrived at these dimensions based on some of the other boards I ride and how I wanted the board to perform in the waves I am hoping to surf this board with. As I stated before, the dimensions of a board will vary greatly based on experience level, style of board you order, and even fitness level to some degree. Once again... talk to your shaper!

Fin Options: As you're probably aware, fins setups vary greatly from board to board. You have consider how you want your board to perform, what conditions you'll be surfing the board, and what type of board you're getting made. Some fin setups don't work for all boards. Think how weird a single fin setup would work for a wide tailed retro fish... For my board, I wanted a wide variety of fin options to play and experiment with, so I decided to go with a 2+1 setup, which means I have a center fin box and two side Future boxes. I set the boxes in such a way that would accommodate a set of thruster fins, but could swap in a single fin, or a medium sized center fin with two small side fins depending on how I wanted the board to surf. So far, I've only surfed it as a thruster, but look forward to seeing how the board will ride differently with different fins.

Glassing Options: Fiberglass formulas are simple... heavier glass=heavier, stronger board. Lighter glass=lighter, weaker board. Of course there is a difference when you're working with epoxy versus polyester resins, but the formula still holds true. Lighter boards are nice for performance, but typically don't last as long. The fiberglass cloth that we typically work with comes in two weights, either 4 oz. or 6 oz. What that means that if you cut a square foot of fiberglass off the roll, it would either weigh 4 or 6 ounces. A typical surfboard has one layer of cloth on the bottom and two layers on the deck. Most people who order boards from me like to find a balance of durability and performance, which usually translates into some combination of 4 and 6 oz. cloth. Personally, I like my boards to be bulletproof (all 6 oz.). I don't really care how much they weigh, and find the extra weight can sometimes help cut through the chop on less than perfect days. We can always do custom color work, as you can see from the bright red color of this board! I love to mess with crazy resin patterns, so if you can dream it up, we can usually make it happen!

If you're new to the custom board process, I hope these last couple posts have cleared up some confusion. The most important thing I can say is to talk to your shaper about these board features and other aspects of board design. Most shapers are happy to work through a board with you, and I'm more than willing to sit down with anyone wanting to get the right board under their feet! Thanks for reading!

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Custom Board Guide (Part 1)



Before my family headed out on our two week family Christmas tour, I had the opportunity to shape a new board for myself. The board will finally be finished up early this week and I'm super excited to get it in the water. I wanted to write up a little explanation of how I arrived at shaping this board for myself to maybe help you understand some aspects of ordering a custom board. As a word of advice, whenever ordering any custom board, I encourage you to talk directly to your shaper!

I've had this board designed in my head for a couple years and finally got to make a reality. The board is a 6'10" x 21.25" x 3" 2+1 winged swallowtail shortboard (I'm a pretty big guy... 6'2", 215 lbs. without a wetsuit on).

Ideas and Goals: Whenever considering a new board, it is a good idea to have an idea or goal for this board and for your surfing. When I was designing this board, I wanted it to be a versatile shortboard that could handle waves up to double overhead. I also know that my surfing style is not well suited for "conventional" shortboarding, so the design clearly reflects a different style of shortboard.

Where Are You Going To Surf This Board? If you're like me, you surf a lot of different breaks in your area. But also like me, you probably have a few favorites. This board is definitely designed with my favorite point breaks around Santa Cruz in mind. Knowing where you're going to surf your new board can affect aspects like rocker, rails, tail shape, and length to name a few.

Plan Shape: I moved the wide point forward 1.5" to put the volume more under my chest for easier paddling into slightly bigger surf. I also like boards that have a beaked nose because of the increased volume up front (and I think it looks sweet!) and this board sports a nice little beak. The board definitely has a bit of a "retro" feel to it, but I'm okay with that. The wings allow the tail width to be stepped down while adding a touch of "bite" to the rail (and, like before, it looks cool!).

Bottom Contours: For the bottom contours, I referenced a few of my favorite boards. All my favorite boards feature a tri-plane hull bottom going into a double barrel "V" off the tail. These contours fit well w/ the type of waves I was hoping to surf, especially w/ a subtle "V" running through the nose of the board (that aspect works well in all surf, but especially when the waves get a bit bigger).

We'll address fin setup and glassing in Part 2. Thanks for reading, and I hope this helps!

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Holland, MI New Years Day Paddle Out


As many folks know, I'm originally from Holland, MI and often return to visit family during the holiday season. Often I'm back in CA before the New Year, but this year I had the distinct privilege of joining the 6th annual New Years Day Paddle Out w/ the "Kook Squad". For the last several years, surfers from the Holland/Grand Haven area and elsewhere join on the shores of Lake Michigan w/in view of Big Red Lighthouse on January 1st to take a photo and paddle out together. This way no one can claim they were the first in the water in the new year. For 2011, the crew was blessed w/ southwest winds and mushy waves at Holland State Park. The air temp was 35 degrees and dropping, while the water was a balmy 34 degrees! Roughly 25 folks showed up to surf and we ended up having a great time w/ some fun waves to boot! Talk about dedication! A big thanks to Brian McDonald for setting this up and thanks to everyone who was there for reminding me how much fun surfing the Lakes can be!